We frequently joined the oyster parties at different corners
of the harbour, taking bottled porter, bread, and condiments with us. There was
no ceremony observed on these occasions; the ladies were quite independent,
each being furnished with a little hammer to knock off the upper shell; the
oyster was then easily taken out with a small knife; after which, we regaled
ourselves with bottled porter, sitting upon the clean projecting rocks. At one
of these parties, Mrs. K.’s little daughter had sat down upon a stone among the
bushes; she presented screamed out, saying she had been bit on the ancle by
something that ran under the stone; upon turning over the stone, we discovered
numbers of large centipedes running about in all directions. We killed many of
these disgusting reptiles; one of them measured about eight inches in length.
So tenacious are they of life, that one which had been cut in two made it
difficult to distinguish which was the head, as each part crawled about equally
nimble. Mr. H[arris]., surgeon, put both parts into a small box, saying they
would unite again; but whether they did or not I never learnt. The child
sustained no injury from the fright.
One morning early in March [1800] we had a visit from Capt. And
Mrs. A., with an invitation to take tea with them in the evening, in order to
see a battle between two tribes of natives who had quarreled, and intended that
their field of battle should be the Barrack-square, of which there was a good
view of them from Capt. A.’s windows. I accompanied my husband to this
gentleman’s residence. At an early hour the natives began to assemble, and
squatted themselves down, men, women, and children, as they arrived. I was
anxious to observe all that passed, while I listened attentively to all the
observations of the governor, who was present. It was thought there would be no
fight that evening, as the adverse tribe had not arrived; however, contrary to
expectation, a single chief came in, advancing fearlessly, having a shield on
one hand and a short club in the other.
Presently the women and children got up, and retired to a little
distance; when this single chieftain began an harangue, sometimes rising and
sometimes lowering his voice; but he could not be understood by any of us. At
length a natives from the tribe who first arrived, advanced a certain interval
towards him with a long spear, and a throwing-stick in his hand, and jabbered
something for a few minutes; after which he appeared to be in great rage,
throwing the spear with great force at the other, who caught it upon his
shield, where it was perceived to break.
This champion then stood for a time alone unsupported by any other; when
presently another man advanced like the former, and after haranguing in the
same manner, let fly his spear also, which rebounded, slanting off the shield.
This was done alternately by several men until dusk; at length two spears were
thrown at him by different persons at the same time, one of which he warded
off, but the other went through his thigh.
One of the medical gentlemen present
cut off the barbed part, and drew it back the same way it went in. Thus ended
the combat, as the wounded man had given the offended party satisfaction. The
quarrel was occasioned by one of their women having been taken away by this
man. The governor observed, it was from motives of humanity he allowed them to
settle disputes openly in this manner; as when left to themselves, natives of
both sexes were sometimes found murdered in the woods, when the perpetrators
could not be discovered. The wounded man was seen walking about next day, as if
nothing had happened to him.
While we staid, two ships came into the harbour; one was the
Hunter, Capt. Anderson, from Bengal;
the other a Spanish prize, from the coast of Peru. Next day sailed the ship Walker, Capt. Nichol, to look after
spermaceti whales.
The town of Sydney is small, with straggling detached wooden
houses, extending about a mile north and south. The regular buildings then
consisted only of the barracks, for the church had been maliciously set on fire
sometime prior to our arrival; in consequence the chaplain, Mr. Johnson, was
obliged to put up with a barn to perform divine service in; and we were
informed that the clergyman at Paramatta, the Rev. Mr. Marsden, was as badly
accommodated. One Sunday morning we heard an impressive and edifying discourse
from a missionary minister, whom Mr. Johnson permitted to preach; he had just
arrived in the Spanish prize from Otaheite, where she had touched, and was on
his way by the first ship for England, for some more labourers in the same
field. He said that their greatest enemies were some renegade Europeans, who
had tried to thwart all their measures, but were ultimately frustrated.
Some bold, faithful pastors, disinterested men, sound in
doctrine, and exemplary in conduct, might be of much use at this place.
Religion seemed to be little regarded, particularly amongst persons in humble
life. We observed evidences of much depravity; and some examples were obliged
to be made, even amongst our own seamen, who had been enticed to pilfer from
the ship. As to security on shore, locks and bars had no effect in keeping out
the depredators there; for when they had a mind to plunder they opened a
passage through the brick wall. Almost incredible were the stories we heard
about the achievements of incorrigible thieves; and had we not been living on
board, should most certainly have suffered much loss of property.
Early in April, we had an invitation from the governor to
accompany him up to Rose Hill, at Parramatta, where he had built a new
government house, and intended giving the first dinner in it to a few friends.
On the morning fixed for this jaunt we prepared to start early, the distance
being upwards of twenty miles. About six o’clock the governor’s boat was
alongside; but a painful duty now devolved upon our hospitable entertainer. Government
stores had so often been robbed of late, that an example was determined upon. A
convicts had been detected in the act with some accomplices who had escaped. He
was tried, found guilty, and sentenced to be hanged. We saw all the preparation
on shore, and the signal when the culprit was to be turned off was to be made
from our ship, by hoisting a union jack at our flag staff.
The fatal moment
approached: the governor held his watch in his hand, and ordered the flag to be
hoisted, but from some inattention to the person who had charge of it, the
signal lines being jammed in the pully, the flag could only be hoisted half way
up. The greatest agitation at this moment seized the governor, who running to
the man, ordered it to be pulled time instantly. No time was lost in again preparing the
tackle. At length the ensign run fluently to the top of the staff. It had been arranged, that should the provost
martial see the jack hoisted half-mast high, the culprit was to be turned off;
but if it rose to the top he was respited. It was at this critical moment the
Governor’s agitation was seen. Mrs. K.
and Mrs. A. were in the cabin with me. We were all very sad at the impending
execution; but when our worthy and humane friend came below, and told us the
man was respited, he had the most cordial thanks and smiles from us all; and I
am sure he felt great satisfaction, in this act of mercy. We took an early
breakfast on board, and set off quite happy.
To approach towards a just description of the beautiful
varied scenery, of capes and coves, hills and valleys, as we passed up the
river, is beyond my feeble abilities. The day was fine; we arrived at Paramatta
about one, and walked up the town. The street is regular, and of a good width;
the houses are detached, chiefly built of wood.
As we walked up the street, a person came from his own door, and saluted
the Governor. I was desired to notice him particularly, as it was the notorious
George Barrington; he had lately been made high constable at this place and
proved himself very useful in that station. He was tall and thin, of a
gentlemanly appearance, but looked sickly.
I was rather disappointed with the new government house,
finding it small, and much inferior to that at Sydney. As it was early in the
day, an excursion was proposed to Town Gabley; and gigs were procured by the
kindness of Capt. P., who commanded at this station. We had a picturesque ride
over a pretty good road; we saw very little cultivated land, the soil being
poor. They depend more upon the land about he Hawksbury river. Town Gabley had
not more than forty houses when I saw it, and they were built of wood. We saw
her one of the individuals, MacCullam, who came out with us. He expressed his
grateful thanks to my husband, for getting him the medical situation which he
then filled; and that he was more comfortable than he had any reason to expect.
We returned to Parramatta, dined, and proceeded by water to Sydney. We reached
the ship at 10 at night, but the time appeared short; it was a fine moon-light
evening, and several of the party enlivened us by singing some select songs,
particularly Mrs. K. who had a very fine voice; we had music, instrumental as
well as vocal; a man in the boat played extremely well on the violin.
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