On the 10th June [1800] our track was to the left
of several small islands; Next morning we saw Cape St. George, the
south-eastern extremity of New Ireland; we kept the coast on our right, at the
distance of three or four miles: every part appeared to be covered with trees,
of several species, some of which were tall and stately, particularly on the
ridges of hill seated inland. The shore, on many points, was seen to be rocky.
No natives were observed here—about noon we descried Cape Orford, the eastern
extremity of New Britain. From this to Cape St. George, the distance was supposed
to be about forty miles, both being seen at the same time, forming the entrance
to St. George’s Channel, up which we proceeded, having the land on both sides
of us, giving to the entrance of the strait the appearance of a large river.
The weather was fine; we had a delightful view of both shore, with their
fertile valleys, and gracefully sloping uplands, where, possible in after ages,
when the tenants of this wild shall become civilized the plough may prepare
yellow trophies for the sickle, and bleating flocks and lowing herds diversify
the landscape with symbols of cultivation and weather, as in the beautiful
hills and dales of Old Britain and Ireland.
As we approached the coast of New Britain, we saw several
boats, but none approached near the ship until the evening, when a canoe,
having an out-rigger, and eleven people on board, came within about a cable’s
length of us, where they lay gazing at the ship for some time; handkerchiefs
were held up to draw them alongside, of which they took no notice. One of the
men who stood up in the canoe, appeared tall, well made, and of a dark complexion.
We for some time had thought that they had red and white turbans on their
heads; but at length discovered that their hair, which was woolly and frizzled,
was covered with a sort of red powder like ochre on one side, and with a kind
of lime or chalk on the other; other individuals were seen with the hair all
red, and others with it all white. Nothing could entice them alongside. The
canoe could paddle very fast; we did not suppose that any of our boats could
overtake it if a trial had been made. As it drew near dark, they paddled round
the ship very briskly, until coming to their first station, between the ship
and the land, they stopped and blew something like smoke or dust from their
hand left to the mouth, and let fly some arrows at the ship (which did not
reach us) and quickly retired towards the shore. The audacity of their New
Britons could easily have been checked by firing a shot over them; but the
captain did not wish to intimidate them from again approaching a ship; and
preferred a course of lenity to resentment for acts indicating their
disposition to be hostile.
We made little progress in the night, having light winds;
meanwhile we descried several fires in New Britain, but none in New Ireland,
and concluded that the latter was but thinly inhabited. Next morning we saw the
Duke of York’s Island, lying nearly in the middle of the channel, which we
thought should have been called the New Isle of Man, in correspondence with its
relative situation. On the land of New Britain we noticed three remarkable
hills, which have the shape of sugar loaves; one of which was much loftier than
the other two; they had hence been called the Mother and her Daughters by Captain Carteret. They look as if they
had been thrown up by a volcano, and we had no doubt but it had been so, for a
little farther inland we observed smoke continually issuing from a hill which
nearly resembles the cones just mentioned; several patches appeared like land
under cultivation.
As we proceeded, a number of canoes was observed, coming
from the Duke of York’s Island. They came boldly on to the ship, singing, and
playing upon an instrument of hollow reeds in the form of the Pandean pipes.
They held out bunches of plantains and cocoa nuts. Many articles were exhibited
to them for barter, but nothing pleased them so much as red and white cloth.
The captain cautioned our people to barter fairly, and to take nothing without
making a return. There were at one time upwards of 30 canoes about the ship.
The seamen having got a plentiful supply of plantains and cocoa nuts, had
finished bartering, when the captain shewed some narrow red and white buntin,
with some of my old ribbons, at sight of which, all the natives in the
different canoes appeared most anxious to possess these treasures, pointing to
the shore, and by signs intimating a wish for us to stop until they returned
with a fresh supply of fruit and other native produce.
Their boats glided to the land, and so anxious were the
companies of natives to possess he pieces of buntin, they they were quarrelling
as to which of them threw fruit, yams, &c. into the ports. However, all got
some of our rags in exchange for a plentiful supply of yams, &c. They were
satisfied, and so were we. They took old knives and pieces of iron hoops in
exchange, but did not set any value upon them. Glaring colours of red and white
cloth attracted them most, there were from five to twelve men in the different
sized boats; they had spears, bows, and arrows with them, but appeared to have
such confidence in us, that we conceived they were placed in their boats more
in readiness to repel an attack from their hostile neighbours, than from any
apprehension from us.
As there was a fine commanding breeze, the ship drifted
slowly between the satellite isle of New Man and the Island of New Britain.
Perhaps the Phoenicians, when they first discovered Britain, and had
intercourse with our rudely painted forefathers, might think of the latter with
mingled commiseration, contempt, and dawning hope, as we did of these poor
savage people. The captain wishing to get clear of the channel before dark,
made sail from the lessening coast of these fair dealing men. In passing the
opposite territory of New Britain, we saw Port Hunter, where the Waaksemheyd had watered. Several
openings led us to suppose, that where New Britain is placed there were more
islands than one, particularly as some canoes went in at one opening and came
out at another. We observed a number of people on a projecting point of land,
holding up bunches of plantains, cocoa-nuts, and yams, but we, having a sufficiency,
did not bring to; at the same time a number of canoes were following the ship
from different parts. As we proceeded we still perceived patches in the ravines
that appeared under cultivation.
Just as we cleared the Duke of York’s Island, we were
surprised to see a ship following us. We were nearly becalmed, but she having a
fine breeze came near enough before dark for us to discover that it was the Walker south seaman, which sailed from
Port Jackson about three weeks before us. They could not see our colours, the
ship’s head being towards them. As it was quickly dark, it was thought we
should have no communication until morning; however, about eight in the
evening, we heard the boats’ oars towing their ship towards us, and presently
voices of individuals in their crews conversing, the night being still—at
length the captain of the Walker
hailed us, saying, “What ship is that pray?” by which we knew that they did not
know us.
“L’Amitié,” was
answered. “From whence come you?” was the next question. Hollandez nuova was replied.
“Who commands that ship,” was then demanded. “Capitaine Le Rouge.”
We then plainly overheard them, conversing together, say we
were either French or Dutch. However,
not to keep them longer in suspense, our captain called aloud in English, “How
do you do, Capt. Nicholl?” their commander returned, “Who is that?”
“Don’t you know the Friendship, Reid?” was rejoined.
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