Lady Maria Nugent crosses the line

Lady Maria, the wife of Lieutenant-General Sir George Nugent, sailed to India on the East Indiaman Baring in 1811. No hardy traveler, she spent most of the voyage praying in her cabin. However, she did venture out on deck to watch the festivities as the ship crossed the line on 16 September -- maybe because she had no choice -- and this is what she wrote about it.

The ceremonies customary on passing the line took place about 9 o'clock this morning, and lasted till 10, and that I am sure was long enough; as in many respects it is a cruel sort of business.  To keep clear of scrapes, it was first agreed, that the soldiers and cadets should be exempt from the ordeal, on paying a dollar each to the crew. -- at 9 A.M. everything being ready, the ship was hailed from the forecastle (as if from the sea) by Neptune, and answered by Captain Templar. Neptune asked what ship it was, and said he wished to come on board. -- Orders were accordingly given to hoist in his car and attendants, and they all immediately came on deck, Neptune and Amphitrite, with their son, in a car drawn by six sea horses, and driven by a sea god. -- Several sea gods were in attendance, as well as the barber and his mate, with a long pole, and instruments for shaving; there were two large tubs near the gangway, filled with salt water, to which Neptune and his people proceeded. Some of the attendants were then ordered to bring every seaman in his turn, who had not crossed the equinoxial line before -- they were taken to the tub blindfolded, and seated there, when the barber and his mate rubbed their faces with tar, asking them at the same time some questions -- the instant they opened their mouths to answer, the mate stuffed a large lump of tar into it, and the barber began shaving them with something that looked like a small saw; then, while the poor man was attentive to these proceedings, he was suddenly ducked, over head and ears, in the tub, and escaping from that, and running towards the forecastle, he was half drowned by buckets of water, thrown by those of the crew who had passed the line before, and were stationed for that purpose to waylay him. All the poor midshipmen underwent this watery trial, and it was astonishing to see how much the soldiers, sailors, &c., seemed to enjoy the fun; but I could not help thinking of the frogs in the fable. Captain Templar, however, very properly forbid an cruelty or severe ill treatment, as is sometimes the case if the men are not restricted; for the sailors have been known to revenge themselves upon the officers, &c., that they disliked, by shaving the skin off their faces, &c. No accident, however, happened on board the Baring, and the day ended in perfect good humour on all sides. The soldiers and sailors continued to amuse themselves till sunset, with dancing and leaping about, &c., after which they assembled near the lee gangway, and sung songs till the hammocks were piped down. -- There was a young sailor, and a serjeant, in particular, who sung really extremely well, and some very pathetic songs, and a Frenchman who sung about his chaumière.

The fable about the frogs is presumably Aesop's parable about the frogs who asked for a king.  Jove, as a joke, dropped a log into their pond, and for a while they were perfectly happy with King Log.  Then one frog who was more daring than the rest jumped upon the log and danced up and down.  Seeing the trick, the frogs demanded a proper king, so Jove, becoming irritated, sent them a stork, which ate them up one by one.

A chaumière is a cottage.

Foreword finalists

I was delighted to learn that two of the members of the facebook group ALL THINGS NAUTICAL feature in the list of finalists for the Foreword Best Independent Book of the Year Award

One is SAM LOW's Hawaiki Rising, and the other is LINDA COLLISON's Looking for Red Feather

Foreword’s 2013 Book of the Year Award Finalists Announced

REVIEW JOURNAL NARROWS THE FIELD IN ITS SEARCH FOR THE BEST INDIE BOOKS OF 2013

TRAVERSE CITY, MI, March 13, 2014 — Foreword Reviews, the only review magazine solely dedicated to discovering new indie books, announced the finalists for its 16th Annual Book of the Year Awards today. Each year, Foreword shines a light on a small group of indie authors and publishers whose groundbreaking work stands out from the crowd. Foreword’s awards are more than just a shiny sticker on the front of a book; they help connect the best indie books to readers eager to discover new stories written by previously unknown authors.

In the next two months, a panel of over 100 librarians and booksellers will determine the winners of these prestigious awards. A celebration of the winners will take place during the American Library Association Annual Conference in Las Vegas on Friday, June 27 at 6 p.m. with awards in over 60 categories, cash prizes for the best in fiction and nonfiction, and widespread recognition.

Ready to read the best indie books of the year? Here is the complete list of Foreword Reviews’ 2013 Book of the Year Award Finalists.

Librarian honored

Luis Herrera, Director San Francisco Public Library, Receives 2014 Sullivan Award

By Dodie Ownes on March 18, 2014 Leave a Comment

The American Library Association (ALA) has announced that the 2014 Peggy Sullivan Award for Public Library Administrators Supporting Services to Children has been awarded to Luis Herrera, San Francisco Public Library’s city librarian. The Sullivan Award is presented annually to an individual in a library administrator role who has shown exceptional understanding and support of public library service to children. The award will be presented at the ALA President’s Program, Sunday, June 29 at the ALA Annual Conference in Las Vegas.

As the jury chair, I can attest to the vigor of Herrera’s accomplishments throughout his career, and the entire committee I worked with was equally impressed. Kathleen Reif, last year’s Sullivan Award winner and 2014 jury member, noted Herrera’s wide ranging impact on children’s services, from his leadership in the Every Child Ready to Read initiative to the recent procurement of IMLS funding for a Teen Digital Media Center at San Francisco Public Library.

The deadline for submission of applications for the 2015 Sullivan Award for Public Library Administrators Supporting Services to Children is Dec. 1, 2014. Guidelines and applications are available on the ALA website.

This article was featured in School Library Journal's SLJTeen enewsletter. Subscribe today to have more articles like this delivered to you twice a month for free.

Captain Reid's bulldog

[August 1800] The commandant accompanied my husband off to the ship this afternoon; and amongst other things, very much admired a fine bull-dog we had on board, the very sight of which struck terror into the Malays; but he was docile and harmless, unless very much provoked. 

I cannot help travelling back to Ireland for a short account of this faithful creature’s adventures. He had belonged to an industrious blacksmith, who used to do jobs for the ship at the passage of Waterford; the owner had a garden that was not too well defended against depredators, in consequence of which a neighbour’s cow entered, and was feasting away upon the cabbages. The blacksmith’s son, a boy about fourteen years of age, seeing this, called the dog, who instantly seized her by the nose, and pinned the poor cow down, bellowing out so loud ass to arouse all the neighbours, and amongst the rest her master. The dog was soon loosened from his hold, but left the blood streaming from the cow’s mouth, the owner of which said the dog should not live; but the blacksmith, well knowing the threat would be put in execution, getting my husband (who happened to be present) to take the dog on board the ship, and save his life.

This was complied with, and a guinea given to his master, who shed tears, as well as his son, at parting with the animal; the dog, however, very soon became attached to the captain, who called him Friends, and was the same he now presented to Col. Taylor. The latter, highly pleased with the gift, declared that he need fear no mad Malay whilst Friends should be with him. The poor animal had been so long on ship board, that when he landed he seemed beside himself; he could not pass a bush without running round and about it several times; rolling on the grass was a great luxury to him: but on the way from the boat to the castle no Malay approached near; they all kept at a respectful distance, some were even running into their houses and shutting the doors.

These people have a most disgusting custom of chewing the beetle-nut with the chunam, which is a kind of paste prepared like lime from shells; and the better sort keep a slave in constant attendance, with a box, for this purpose. Their teeth are as black as jet, and their mouths and lips as if dyed with a deep red, in consequence of this filthy propensity. They are idle, and very treacherous in their dealings. The Chinese are the only industrious people here; a China-man is, indeed, generally a jack of all trades, and the colonel has several of them in his service as domestics, who act as cooks, gardeners, painters, show-makers, and carpenters, all in turn. I was shewn a book of drawings, in which most of the fruits and shrubs of this place were coloured in the most correct and beautiful manner, by a China-man who was then at work in the garden. I think no person of the least observation could mistake a Malay for a China-man, let them dress as they will; and although they appear to have originally sprung from the same stock, they have the same flat cast of countenance, and the larger lineaments are closely similar, the Chinese having at the same time fairer complexions and smaller eyes than the Malays.

Some of the gentlemen riding out one morning, attended by the dog “Friends,” were in a dangerous predicament, passing a large pool or tank of stagnated water, where several buffaloes were cooling themselves, with their heads just above the surface. At sight of the dog, they instantly rose, and pursued the party, leaving poor Friends to bring up the rear, who was reluctantly obliged to obey his master, and retreat also. These creatures are just like swine in the mire, their backs being covered with wet mud, from rolling in the dirty water, which is gratifying to them whenever they can indulge in such a luxury, but no doubt serves also to keep the stinging flies from biting them. They have no hair, only a few bristles on their skins, like those of a pig, but more thinly scattered over the surface of the body; they have a twisted rattan passed through the nostrils, in the shape of a ring, by which they are led when at work. When in a wild state, it is said that no animal, not even the tiger, will attack the buffalo, or if he do, is sure to give up the encounter first. There are numbers of tigers as well as crocodiles at this place, together with very large and venomous snakes, of which many stories were related by the inhabitants.

After spending five most pleasant days with our very kind and hospitable friends, we prepared to go on board, and parted with regret on both sides from several Dutch families, who visited at the castle while we were there, from Col. Taylor and his amiable partner, of whom all agreed in speaking in terms of the highest commendation.

Mrs. R. in Malacca, continued

[August 1800] There was a small party engaged to dine at the castle that evening, where for the first time I saw and wondered at the eastern manners and style of living. The suite of apartments were lofty and spacious, and the table was covered with a profusion of delicate viands; after which, the finest fruits were served, the different names and properties of which were painted out by our kind entertainer. 

Amongst these the mangosteen is, I think, without exception, the most delicious and finest flavoured fruit I ever tasted; it is about he size of an apple; the part to be eaten is enclosed in a thick dark brown rind, and when opened, it shews five or six white jelly-like fibres, resembling the small quarters of an orange. The pine-apples were very large, and well flavoured; we had also mangoes and guavas, with the custard-apple; the latter, about the size of a large orange, with a rough grey coat outside; when ripe it appears to burst the skin, and exhibits a thick cream-coloured substance. It is eaten with a tea-spoon, and the hard black seeds, which it is mixed with, rejected. 

Many persons are extremely partial to this fruit, but I must confess it was no favourite of mine; we also had several kinds of oranges and lichees, originally transplanted from China. The latter is a very delicious fruit, a kind of pulp covered over a hard kernel, and a rough coast formed an exterior covering to the whole, about the size of a walnut. We also had the pumblenose [pomelo], or, as they are called in the West-Indies, chaddock; they are a fine cooling fruit, about the size of a cocoa-nut, and resemble the orange in colour: a still greater variety of others, the names of which I have forgotten.

After dinner the gentlemen joined the ladies at tea in the drawing-room; cards were then introduced, and the evening passed away most pleasantly. My long absence from female society acted as a charm upon my spirits, and made me meet it with a double relish. I was informed at parting with Mrs. T[aylor]. that a horse would be ready for my husband at daylight next morning, and that the colonel would drive me out in his curricle, to see the place before the sun rose too high, as it was only early in the morning that this could be accomplished. I thanked my polite hostess for her information and next morning was ready to attend.

We had a most delightful drive round the environs of the town. Passing the Chinese burial ground, and through the street where these people reside, I was surprised to observe a long chest, finely carved and ornamented, at each door of the Chinese houses. These the colonel told me were their coffins, and that as soon as a China-man saved money enough he then procured a coffin for himself, and generally slept upon the lid. He also informed me that a poor fellow had been lately murdered, while thus asleep upon his coffin, by a mad Malay, who had ran a-much, or, in other words, had lost all his money and other property by gambling, and then given himself up in despair.

The Malays on such occasions often indulge in in an intoxicating drug called bang, mixed with opium, and the operation of which causes raging madness. In this state they determine to stab, with their kresse or dagger (a weapon no Malay is without) every living creature that falls in their way, after first having sacrificed, if possible, the person who had gained their property. The old invented story, however, about the upas-tree being possessed of a gum of a deadly poisonous nature, is nothing else than a scarecrow to keep European nations from smelling out the Dutch spices. It is well known that no grass will grow under the clove-tree, but the Malay kresse may be poisoned in various ways independently of this fictitious gum, the colonel told me that such scenes frequently occurred in the interior of the country; and when known to take place, a high price was offered to the first man who could dispatch the demon, for in this light they certainly deserve to be viewed; but we cannot marvel much at such atrocities taking place amongst these savage people, when, alas! but too many such instances occur amongst our own countrymen, after bad fortune at the gambling-table. There is but little difference (in my humble opinion) between him who shoots his friend in a duel, and afterwards destroys himself, and the mad Malay who runs a-muck, and always ends in self-destruction, if not overtaken.

Before we returned to the castle, the sun became so very warm as to render the shade not a little grateful. We breakfasted at a pleasant retreat on a hill within the boundary of the fort, and from whence we had a fine extensive view of the surrounding country; we commanded also a view of the shipping in the roads, and the lofty mountains on the island of Sumatra. Notwithstanding the proximity to the equator, being in lat. about two deg. north, the verdure and foliage are ever green. 

Near the mount is an old church, which was built by the Portuguese upwards of two centuries ago, and might still be preserved at a small expense. Perhaps, however, the settlement may be given back to our Dutch friends, should a peace take place; in which case they should advance the needful for this purpose, but at present there is really danger, in walking across the slab floor, of the vaults underneath giving way. On these stones are many memorials of Europeans, formerly resident, and whose remains are interred here.

After breakfast we again descended to the castle, but on the way were detained to look at a reservoir of water, which contained many gold and silver fish, which eat from the hand. I felt much indebted to Mrs. T. who took great pains to let me see every thing worth notice within the fort. It will be a matter of regret should they ever demolish the strong walls of this secure retreat; it was frequently, however, the subject of conversation, that orders were expected from home to blow up the works.

Eleanor Reid in Malacca, 1800

On the 6^th of August [1800], in the evening, we came to a place called Saint John’s Island, where we anchored for the night. On the next morning a Malay boat came alongside, with three fine turtles, and a quantity of fish fresh caught, as well as some which had been dried in the sun. The captain purchased all they had with dollars, for the persons in the boat would take nothing else in regular barter. The turtle might weigh about two hundred to two hundred and fifty pounds each, and the three cost only five dollars and some spirits, the latter of which they seemed to prize highly.

We now left the straits of Singapore and entered the straits of Malacca, having the great Island of Sumatra on the left, and the very southernmost extremity of the continent of Asia, called the Peninsula of Malacca, on our right. Our only interruption, on passing these straits in the day, arose from very hard squalls, with much rain, thunder and lightning. These squalls generally lasted about an hour.  We always anchored and furled the sails when the squall was approaching, and enjoyed a most agreeable change after it had ceased, as the thermometer would fall from ninety to eighty and seventy-five degrees. I may here remark, that notwithstanding the difference of climate we had hitherto experienced, our seamen were all healthy, a circumstance perhaps which may be chiefly attributed to the large supply of fine pigs we got at Norfolk Island. This enabled them to have a fresh meal three times per week, and they were constantly at full allowance of water.

In the afternoon of the 9^th, we had again the satisfaction of beholding a place where civilized inhabitants of our country lived; this was the fort of Malacca, which, with the city, had a very fine appearance as the ship entered the roads. We found lying here the ship Commerce, Capt. Lane, who with his purser, Mr. Edward Brightman, a young man of colour, came on board as soon as the ship anchored; he made many inquiries as to where we had procured the spices, &c. These questions the captain did not think proper to answer; but the purser, Mr. Brightman, who understood the language of our lascars, was more successful, as they told him all they knew, and his ship was employed in the Malay trade.

The next morning the captain went on shore, to wait upon Col. Aldwell Taylor, the commandant at this place, who no sooner understood that I was on board, than he came off to invited me on shore. He would take no denial, and informed me that Mrs. Taylor had apartments at the castle quite at my service. There was here no alternative; I soon packed up a few necessaries, and accompanied my husband and the colonel on shore. On landing I could make no immediate observations, being hurried into a palanquin, and shut up to avoid the heat of the sun. This mode of conveyance was indeed a great novelty to me, being the first of the kind I had seen; however, I was not so closely shut up as to preclude me from observing the shops and houses as we passed. They mostly appeared built of wood, having three, and some four stories, and reminded me of the Dutch houses at the Cape, the windows and doors being painted green, and having a similar external appearance. In the shops were plenty of sugar-canes, and all kinds of tropical fruits.

We soon approached, however, and entered the castle-gates, where I was received by Mrs. Taylor in the most polite and friendly way; her pleasing manners, affability, and ease, very soon convinced me I was welcome. There was another lady with her, a Mrs. Butler, a distant relation, whose husband was a merchant, and formerly commanded a ship in the country trade.

The photographs of Malacca were taken by Ron in 1979.

Mrs. R. sails through the Spice Islands

On the morning of the 18^th July [1800] we left Osso, and proceeded on our voyage, passing between an island called Pulo Moor [Muor Island] and Polut Potanny [Batek Island]. Next day we saw the island Oby Major [Obi Island], and sailed between that and Pulo Gassas [Gag Island]; then were observed the islands of Ceram [Seram] and Booros [Buru], which we passed upon our left Amboyna [Ambon] is situated a little to the south of these islands, but being out of our track we did not see it.

On the 25^th we saw the island of Bootan [Butung]; at which place, when my husband was there in the Cornwallis, and in charge of a watering party, they would have been murdered, had not the treacherous design been discovered by one of the seamen, who understood the Malay language, he overhearing a conference between the Malays, who were all armed, and very numerous. He learnt that their first proposition was to massacre the boat’s crew, and then attack the ship. But this was overruled by a chief, who observed, that if they could the next day entice the boat’s crew to come again for water, that the ship’s company would be more off their guard, and more easily overpowered. A Malay, who spoke a little Dutch, enquired, in pursuit of this scheme, if the ship wanted any more water: it was answered that there was very little on board, and it would take three days to complete the watering. This reply induced them to allow the boat to proceed on board, not suspecting that their evil intentions were known. On the boat’s return, the unpleasant discovery was communicated to the captain: the Malays were then instantly ordered out of the ship; and no time was lost in leaving a place where so much danger was to be apprehended. There were upwards of twenty war proas counted in the river, mounting from four to six guns, and capable of containing from thirty to forty men in each. Fortunately for the Cornwallis’s people, it was low water when she sailed, and most of the proas were aground.

Reid's log of the Marquis Cornwallis at Butung SLNSW

Leaving Bootan on our right, we passed through the Straits of Saylair [Flores Strait], and next day saw a most dangerous shoal, called the Brill, upon which part of the wreck of a ship was visible, with three large pirate proas at anchor to leeward of it. The ship’s head being turned towards them, they doubtless thought we were coming to reconnoitre: they instantly got under weigh, set their sails, and made off as fast as possible; after which we altered our course, and stood on, so as to clear the shoal. It being very fine weather, we passed within a few miles of the Brill; it appeared like a large white patch in the midst of the blue water, the white coral shewing the danger under the surface. The Friendship did not delay her progress by sending a boat to examine the wreck, as only some of the ribs or timbers were seen above water. At this time the high land of the island Celebes was in sight.

From July 27 until August 3, was occupied in passing through the dangerous Java Sea: and during this time we had seen the great island of Borneo on our right, of which the animal nearest in likeness to the human species is a native, namely, the Orn-Outang [orang-utan], or man of the woods, according to the Malay language. There are also great quantities of gold dust procured at Borneo; but all ships trading with the inhabitants must be continually on the watch, and well armed, as one chief who barters the gold may employ another to way-lay the European party, and these, if overpowered, are sure to be murdered; too many instances of this have occurred to vessels trading amongst the Malays.

We had now reached the east entrance of Singapore Straits. On the 4^th we were gratified by the sight of a ship coming out of them as we were entering; she proved to be the Lowjee Family, from Bombay, bound to China, with a cotton cargo. They informed us that many privateers were in the India Seas, and that some had been seen in the Straits; that the Arniston, Indiaman, had nearly been taken by one off Bencoolen. This information made our captain prepare for a defence, and put on as formidable an appearance as possible. The ship had but twelve guns mounted, but ports below for twenty-four: the vacant ports were filled with what the sailors called quakers, namely, wooden guns painted, which made her show at a distance as if she had upwards of thirty guns mounted.

It was very pleasant sailing through these Straits, having the land very near us both sides of us, covered with wood to the water’s edge.

Mrs.R.'s "Pulo" is from the Malay, "pulau," island.

Mrs. R. learns more about her husband's past

...that Hugh Reid, as a young lieutenant, was a privateer ... though the Dutch would have called him a pirate

[July 1800, at anchor at Galilo] It very much surprised the mates to find our captain so well known at this apparently wild place. 

But nothing will remain to excite wonder, when it is known that he assisted in reinstating the Sultan, just mentioned, as Chief of Tidore, an eminence which was his by birthright; but he had formerly been displaced by the Dutch, and a price put upon his head, in consequence of his having supplied an English ship with provisions, &c. To revert to the origin of that transaction: in 1776 [1796], our captain received a lieutenant’s commission, signed by Sir John Shore, and the other members of council at Calcutta, to act against the Dutch. The establishment he then belonged to fitted out several armed vessels, as well for trade as war; and the officers directing this force acted amongst these islands and people near two years, assisted by a number of war-proas well armed: they drove the Dutch from Tidore, and attacked Ternate three successive times, where a number of men were killed and wounded on both sides.

The Dutch at this time were almost starved out, and otherwise to harassed, that had any of our king’s ships been present, these lords of the eastern seas would most gladly have delivered up the island; but they thought, and justly too, that the influence of the private ships were not sufficient to keep the hostile Malays in check. Some of the Dutch governors in these settlements exercise great cruelty and tyranny over these people, particularly if the natives be detected in trafficking with the English, the Batavian authorities having the power of life and death vested in themselves without any appeal. But, thank God, this abuse of sovereignty cannot be erected in any of our settlements with impunity.

Twan-Allie [Tuan Hadjee] stated that the Sultan was very happy now at Tidore, and had not for some time been attacked from Ternate, the Dutch having no disposable force; but as he was upwards of seventy years of age, it was thought that his youngest brother, Rajah Mooda, from the island of Ceram, would be called to the government of Tidore.

Our friend, Twan-Allie, continued on board all the time we remained here; notwithstanding his apparent strictness in keeping the institutes of the koran, he partook of our wine, and the common fare of the table, ham and pork excepted. He was too high a personage to trade, but made presents in hopes of a double return. This is the custom with the Sultan and all his chief men in these parts. However, I must not say too much on this score, as I came off pretty well.

He admired a topaz broach which I had; this was presented to him; in return he gave me three beautiful birds of paradise, two cockatoos, and two handsome luries [lories]; he was pleased with the exchange, and so was I. We also received from this person about two ounces of seed pearls, and some fine tortoise-shell, in the rough state; for all which he got more than an equivalent. The Malays had also plenty of the edible bird’s-nests, which are so much in demand amongst the Chinese, for making a luxurious soup: but as all our little merchandize was exhausted, we could purchase no more of their commodities.

The ship’s rudder being now put to rights, preparations were made for our departure. The ship at this place was filled with parrots, cockatoos, and luries, belonging to the seamen and lascars; many of them equal in beauty to our Botany Bay birds, but not so hardy.

The Cunard stunt that worked

Captain Kevin Oprey displays nerves of steel as he stands on the bulbous nose of his ship, Queen Mary.

Captain Kevin Oprey stands beneath the soaring hull of the Queen Mary 2 during a round-the-world voyage in its tenth anniversary year.

Two safety craft stood by during the shoot off Bali, Indonesia, but the 61-year-old remained sure-footed on the bulbous bow of the ship throughout.

The Cunard liner is 72m (236ft) high from keel to funnel – one-and-a-half times the height of Nelson’s column.

‘I’ve always tried to take pictures that capture the public imagination,’ photographer James Morgan told Yahoo!7 News.

And he certainly succeeded -- the item has been reproduced by just about every news magazine going.  But one has to admire the captain's grit and courage.

Not only is he brave (or foolhardy), but he is a good sport, as witness this interview HERE

To my surprise and amusement, what should come gliding into Wellington this morning, but the Queen Mary herself, presumably complete with Captain Oprey.

Luckily, it is a beautiful day.

At anchor in western New Britain

Mrs. R. continues her journey on the Friendship through exotic islands and shores.

[July 1800]The land hereabout was clothed with verdure to the water’s edge. We had no communication with the shore that evening, but during the night were serenaded with many different and harmonious notes of the feathered tribe, as well as with the mixed under tones of many humming insects; the ship lying so near the shore, and the night being still, the least noise could be heard amongst the trees. 

Next morning a proa came alongside, with a chief and six paddlers. When he came on board, he immediately recognized the captain, and was most happy to see him, saying, everything in his power should be done to assist in getting the ship watered, &c. This person was an Imaum, or Mahometan priest: he might be about forty-five years of age; had a commanding countenance, which with his long white beard gave him a respectable appearance. He ordered some very fine pine-apples and plantains to be brought from the proa, with sago-bread, in the shape of little square cakes. The latter were not much relished, being of a dry nature; but the pine-apples were a great treat, having a most delicious flavour. 

In the afternoon two large armed proas were seen coming into the harbour; but kept at a distance until we shewed English colours. When they directly entered, and came close to our ship. They were from Papua, or New Guinea.  The chief men were Malays, but the others resembled the negroes, except that the air or wool on the head was frizzled out like a large black wig, twice the size of the head; and a most ferocious look they had.

These boats carried swivels, mounted behind a barricade, with loop-holes to fire through. They were trading vessels, but it was said they would plunder if a chance offered. We got some nutmegs, mace, and beautiful birds of paradise from them, in exchange for crockery, hatchets, and cloth; they very much wanted gunpowder, but that demand was not complied with.  They had been at first afraid we were Dutch, which made them hesitate entering the harbour, until they saw our colours; observing, as they told us this, that the Dutch were their greatest enemies. The people on shore were glad when the proa went away, saying, if we had not been there they should have been plundered by them.

I had often heard that the birds of paradise lived in the air, and could not approach the earth without certain death; that they had no feet, nor any terrestrial habits. However, those we procured from these people had not only feet, but claws like a parrot. The Malays informed us that these animals come to Papua at certain seasons, like birds of passage, and are snared. We had three different kinds, the straw-coloured, the yellow, and the crimson; the latter are by far the handsomest; these are called the rajah or king birds: our specimens measured about nine inches in length, the body not thicker than a goldfinch, and the plumage of a most beautiful crimson, scarlet, and green colour. They had two quills projecting about seven inches from the tail; these quills appeared as if stripped of the feathers, until at the extreme end, which was curled up about the size of a small daisy, tinged with the most delicate colours imaginable. The yellow birds, although beautiful, were very inferior to the rajahs.

The nutmeg is very plentiful here, notwithstanding what is said to the contrary; the natives brought us the fruit upon branches, in all its stages, from the size of an olive to that of a peach upon the twig. The nut, when bursting the pulp or rind, and shewing the bright red mace over the shell, is exceedingly beautiful. I procured plenty in this state, and had them preserved in clarified syrup of sugar. The captain did not go into the woods this time, but I have heard him say that when here formerly as an officer, within an hour’s walk from the shore he has counted upwards of an hundred trees bearing fruit.

There were several large proas, or corra-corras, which arrived from several parts of the same island to trade while we remained; they had plenty of spices, which they readily exchanged with us for cloth, &c.; but were particularly fond of some Scotch plaid. If we had had plenty of the same commodity on board, it would have turned to good account; indeed, the captain bartered all the merchanize he had for spices; and my small wardrobe of old apparel came in for a share. We found the Malays at this place very honest and fair dealing people. We were supplied with plenty of fruit, fish, and turtle, while we staid. They were afraid to take their trade to Amboyna, on account of pirate proas which infested those seas; and if any ship were so unfortunate as to get on shore, it was sure to be plundered, and the crew murdered by those vultures. This was the case with a ship under Danish colours, going through Dampier’s Straits to China, the year before.

One night we were alarmed by the firing of two muskets from the forecastle of our ship; two proas were observed approaching, beating upon an instrument, and singing what was thought to be a war-song; notwithstanding they were challenged from the ship, they still advanced. Immediately on the muskets being fired, the captain went upon deck, and as he understood the Malays pretty well, soon found they were friends, and invited them alongside; when three chiefs came on board, and sent the proas away from the ship; one of them was an old friend of the captain’s, named Twan-Allie. His master, Sultan Newkoo, of Tidore, had dispatched him to collect tribute at the different ports of Messa, Weda, and Osso, which was paid in spices. 

It was very soon understood that he wanted some presents for his master, as also for himself. Captain R. gave him, in the presence of the other chiefs, a handsome pair of pistols, a sword, and a dirk, with four cannisters of gunpowder for the Sultan. They wished the ship to go to Tidore, saying, that the Sultan had plenty of cloves and other spices, which she wished to part with. This, however, was out of the question, as we were not prepared for traffic.