This charmingly chapter-noted memoir begins "It was Bob's dream to sail across the ocean."
It was a crazy dream. This was couple who had never sailed across an ocean, who were approaching middle age, where at least one of them was terrified of drowning, and who were living in a dream house on Hawaii. But, as Linda Collison writes, "One day I woke up and found myself onboard."
The boat was Topaz, 36 feet long, a fiberglass sloop that was not as roomy as a single-wide trailer, and which needed work. A lot of work. And while they were working, the couple embarked on a different adventure, grabbing an opportunity to crew on the replica of Captain Cook's Endeavour.
It took courage. This whole book, in fact, is a testament to courage. That a couple should actually pay to sleep in an 18th century-style hammock, and climb the ratlines at night, then throw themselves over futtock shrouds to clamber onto a greasy maintop and then climb and climb an almost invisible topmast, gripping almost unsubstantial lines to sidle out on a greasy yard to work on a heavy, wet sail, is courage of the maddest kind. Yet they loved it. They learned a lot. And it was supremely poetic.
This was because they planned to sail from Hawaii to Tahiti - in the wake of Cook. It was a reverse, in a way, of the great Captain James Cook's final voyage in the Resolution.
It was also to be a voyage in the wake of Hokule'a.
Launched in March 1975 by the Polynesian Voyaging Society, this double-hulled replica of a
wa'a kaulua (
pahi; waka hourua) still sails today, but is probably best known for its 1976 pioneering voyage from Hawaii to Tahiti, using traditional navigation techniques.
Well, Linda and Bob did not venture into the wide blue Pacific without such aids as radio and GPS, but Linda's reminiscences are redolent with her deep knowledge of what went before - that in their time Polynesian navigators were the greatest the world had ever known.
The tupuna - ancestors - were skilled sailors who burst from Southeast Asia into the Pacific well over 3000 years ago, to explore as far east as South America, and as far south as the sub-Antarctic Auckland Islands, to colonize a myriad host of islands, carrying their animals and plants with them to establish tropical paradises on what had been barren volcanic uprises, and creating a vast trading network that was the Old Silk Road of its time.
Their navigation methods were remarkable. At a time when Europeans were just start to experiment with fore and aft sails, pahi powered with lateens were criss-crossing the mighty Pacific, for days and weeks out of sight of land. The navigators did it with intense observation -- by watching currents and swells, the movement of star patterns, the flights of birds, the formation of clouds, the colors of the water, and the drift patterns of seaweed.
And also by knowledge of islands unseen -- the backsight of the departure point, the position of the destination island, and the compass point of a reference island.
The stars were reliable beacons. Linda grasped this, writing, "At night, the stars were like neighbors' porchlights. Familiar. Observing their path over several hours I could grasp how the traditional Polynesian seafarers used them as moving signposts."
That word "moving" is very significant. Linda herself noticed a strange phenomenon, where it feels as if the world is moving, and the boat is standing still. As she writes, "Sometimes I have the illusion we are standing still, that everything above and below and all around is moving but we are not." It took the GPS and the chart to convince her otherwise.
Yet, or so modern Polynesian voyagers tell me, this is how the ancients envisaged the voyage. Anchored by the compass point of the unseen, yet vital, reference island, the sea and attendant stars and islands moved in a great arc around the canoe, until the destination island was raised and reached. And, until that moment, the pahi lay still.
Knowing this magic, it is no wonder the tupuna and their marae are still revered.
Something else Linda discovered was "the vast wealth of time" of Tahiti. It leads to a kind of "happy indifference," where there is no ambition to do anything at all. In Tahiti, it is called fiu (pronounced, rather appropriately, phew): as the locals say, "'Je suis Fiu' est une expression souvent entendue en Polynésie Française, difficile à traduire simplement, il exprime une sorte de lassitude."
Difficult to translate? No, when you think of the tupuna and what their navigators and seafarers accomplished. Their era, for some unknown reason, was drifting to an end by the time of the intrusion of Captains Wallis and Cook, which is why the invasion by Europeans was so successful. It was as if the ancestors were resting on their laurels. They had done their work, and it was time for fiu.
It was a lassitude that gripped Linda and Bob as well -- but they wrenched themselves out of it, and voyaged back to Hawaii.
And so their adventure came to an end -- to be memorialized in this book, and their photographs.