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Saturday, September 1, 2018

Report on the Paul Gauguin voyage by the commodore of the Dana West Yacht Club



We’re Baaaack!!!!. Yes, after a very relaxing 10 days aboard the incomparable m/s Paul Gauguin, sailing to exotic tropical ports in the Society Islands of French Polynesia, I have only three small disappointments to mention. First, the long flight to and from Papeete, Tahiti was not fun. Yes, I spent a couple hours laying on the galley floor on the plane. Thank you to the Canadian doctor with the magic cure for nausea. Second, all of you couldn’t be there with us. And finally, like waking from a wonderful dream – we had to come home. What an amazing and seamless experience though. The Paul Gauguin team was truly tops, from the corporate office making special arrangements for our group to the ship’s Captain and his entire staff. The food too was fantastic, almost as good as ours at the club. The weather was terrific. The sights were amazing. It was a bucket list item for Kathie and me for sure. I can’t thank Pam Northcott enough for making the 2018 Commodore’s Cruise a smooth sailing success. I also want to thank everyone who joined us. The trip wouldn’t have been nearly as much fun without you. I’m glad to have had the opportunity to get to know some of you better.

To paint a couple images for those who weren’t able to come along – We arrived in a hot and humid Tahiti early in the morning, not yet acclimated to the muggy weather. After a short rest at the Intercontinental Hotel in Papeete, we headed by bus to the ship.

From Papeete, we sailed to Huahine, a pair of small lush green islands joined by a short narrow bridge. Groups of six or so climbed into the back of a well-used Range Rover pickup with a simple tin roof. The local kids were jumping off the bridge into the refreshing teal water as we drove by. The greens and blues there can’t be described. We pulled off the road here and there for scenic photo opps before stopping at a small stream where we fed several large fresh water blue eyed eels. We then boarded a panga that took us through a brief warm squall to a small pearl farm on a tiny free-standing pier in a well-protected picturesque bay. Heavy surf was breaking on the shallow reef a half mile away. We visited ancient temples and learned about the cannibalistic practices that existed less than 200 years ago. A direct descendent of the local tribe, our guide and driver, added a few local stops to see some special sights, so we skipped the vanilla farm and raced back. The last tender was waiting at the dock. What a fun start to the trip.

Next, we visited Bora Bora for two days. Frank, Joanie, Kathie and I met Kavika, a salty surfer from the States turned local cab driver. “Take us to Bloody Mary’s and pick us up in 2 hours”, we told him. Bloody’s was ho-hum, so we called Kavika to pick us up after just 15 minutes. We asked to go to the Bora Bora - not really a “Yacht Club”. He asked if we trusted him. Sure, why not. So instead, next stop, the “Lucky House”, a simple shack of a house turned pizza joint with no view but great drinks, fresh homemade pizza and a pool! Joanie hopped right in as we made ourselves at home. Heading back to the dock a couple hours later, Kavika pulled over in front of a small house and slid open a long, wobbly metal gate. “This is my buddy’s house. Come on in” There in the unkept front yard was a huge WWII naval canon resting on two enormous anchors, a little rusted and justkinda set in a corner. But what a cool piece of local history that’s not on the typical guided tour. I found it especially interesting because my Dad served as an engineer in the Marines on the nearby islands in 1941.


Following two days on Bora Bora, we headed for Rangiroa for a day, then Fakarava, two of the larger outlying Taumotus, some 300 miles north east of Tahiti.

Because the 504 foot Paul Gauguin has barely a six foot draft, it can pass through narrow and very shallow reef gateways leading from deep open ocean with wind-driven swells to breathtaking anchorages in calm picturesque waters. Our captain seemed to thread that needle several times along the cruise. Our adventures ranged from snorkeling in a secluded cove off a small island near Taha’a to swimming in the stunning blue lagoon on Fakarava.

We swam with the rays and sharks near Moorea’s Opunohu Bay. But, mosquitos aside, I think my favorite experience was hiking the “Trail of the Ancients” in the jungles of Moorea with our colorful and extremely knowledgeable guide, Mark Eddowes. Or was it the uncrowded and un-rushed dining aboard ship, or champagne in our cabin each morning, or the endless wine and cocktails, or the always available lounges by the pool and near the bar or maybe the glorious sunsets every evening as we headed out to open waters and the next day’s tropical adventure?

OH!, I almost forgot to mention the two wonderful private events Paul Gauguin arranged for us. We were first treated to a private cocktail party on the top deck hosted by the ship’s Senior Officers. I was very proud to see our burgee flying overhead on the ships flag mast. They also arranged an exclusive DWYC brunch in the La Veranda fantail restaurant. Again, our burgee was prominently displayed. Thank you, Marcia, Irenia, Michale and Captain Mirkovic. Suffice it to say, Kathie and I would go back in a heartbeat, and I’d take every one of you with me, if I could. We’ve gotta play to win, right?

Early in the trip, we had the pleasure of meeting Joan and Ron Druett from New Zealand. Joan is a travel blogger and her husband, Ron is a revered historical maritime painter. What a joy to have met them. A casual chance meeting with a simple hello started the conversation. Joan asked, “Are you one of the yachties? You have that look about you?” “Yes, we are with the Dana West group”, I replied with a smile. The four of us enjoyed a few brief conversations during the cruise. I learned on the last day that Joan was the featured lecturer on the Paul Gauguin, talking about Tupaia, Captain Cook, the Mutiny on the Bounty, Shipwrecks and Castaways, and the discovery of Tahiti by the first Europeans. I was disappointed that Kathie and I hadn’t attended her lecture, but we exchanged contacts and Joan sent me this link to her blog ---- 

Scroll down a ways and you will see a familiar burgee. Thank you, Joan, for your kind mention of Dana West. It was a pleasure to have met you both.

I know I’m leaving out lots of great details, fond memories and probably forgetting some important mentions like the Birthdays and Anniversaries some of our members celebrated on the cruise. I’ll leave it to them to share their memories with you. After all the planning and anticipation, our 2018 Commodore’s Cruise is now behind us. An amazing Adventure of a Lifetime for Kathie and me, for sure.





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