CALCUTTA AT LAST
September, 1800
The next morning we got under weigh and proceeded
towards Garden reach. The finest prospect burst upon our view as we rounded a
point at the bottom of the reach; we behind a number of elegant detached
mansions, surrounded by every indication of affluence and elegance; they are
seated in the midst of beautiful meadows and pleasure grounds, where the grass
is like velvet to the water’s edge. The appearance of this delightful spot far
exceeded my expectation; it only wanted the variety of hill and dale to make it
fairy land.
The tide now rushed down with such force, that we were obliged to
come once more to an anchor a little below the Botanic Garden, which was on our
left; and as the Captain wished to inform Doctor [William Roxburgh], the Company’s botanist,
that he had in charge the plants sent from Penang, the sun being low, I was
induced to land, and take a walk in the fine gardens. We were most kindly
received by the Doctor, who shewed us every thing worth notice. Mrs. R. did not
speak English like a native; I understood she was a native of Germany. She was
extremely civil, and requested that I would spend a few days with her as soon
as we were a little settled in town.
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| William Roxburgh |
While passing through the different
beautiful walks, I was surprised to see numbers of jackalls and foxes running
about, as if they were domesticated, and asked the reason: the Doctor said that
when the sun was down they always came from their lurking places; that they
were so numerous in the country, it was impossible to keep them under. We then
returned on board, after promising to make frequent visits to Doctor and Mrs.
R. who gave us a general invitation.
Next morning the wind was adverse, and the freshes
running so strong that the ship could not move. The river here was covered with
vessels of all descriptions; many brigs and sloops, with large clumsy barges
called burrs, were going down to the Indiamen with cargoes and provisions:
there were also most beautiful pleasure vessels named budgerows, pinnaces, and
snake boats, in constant motion. This scene was interesting.
Towards noon a breeze sprung up, which enabled the
ship to proceed, when we soon came in sight of the flag staff of Fort William,
passed quickly up towards it, and saluted it with nine guns. This compliment
was returned from the saluting battery. The city of Calcutta was now in sight,
with its stately buildings, appearing like so many palaces, particularly those
about Chowringa. This, with the numerous masts of the shipping, lying off the
town, which produced a grand effect, engaged all our attention and admiration.
None on board were more pleased at our arrival than the Sepoys; they had been
absent some years at Bencoolen. They were all landed in the evening; the
Captain then went on shore to report the ship, and to hire a house while the
ship remained. We came to anchor off the Banks Hall, where the master-attendant
has an office, near what is called the old fort, but which retains no vestiges
of a fortification as far as we could observe from the anchorage. On the
opposite side of the river a number of handsome looking villas adorn Howrah, or
Saulkea; this suburb is situated abreast of Calcutta. Conspicuous amongst the
buildings is the large one called the Female Orphan School.
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